Monday, November 26, 2012

kap khun ka

Thanksgiving. How super unique and original of me to write a post about the people and things for whom and which I am endlessly thankful, right? I thought about trying to avoid the topic altogether seeing as how it's all anyone is posting about these days. But to allow my people to go un-thanked? It's unthinkable. So I'm taking this entry to revel in my cliche-ness because DARN IT! There's just too much to be grateful for this go-around.

I'm thankful for revelations. 
Every moment that goes by reveals another reason to count my lucky stars. It's my home 8,000 miles away from home. My home where my words are rarely understood, but my heart has never been perceived more clearly. I see, witness, give, and feel love every day whether it's from my fellow English teachers, my students, my Thai friends, shopkeepers, trainers, or even people I've never met. I'm so happy to have discovered that my love of teaching does, in fact, extend beyond only the secondary grades. Where I've found the most love, as always, has been from God. I had no idea His plans for me would be revealed in a predominantly Buddhist country (of all places), but it's been beautiful.

I'm thankful for being single.
Despite all my serious ongoing relationships with Travel, Adventure, Routine, and Teaching, life has its lonely moments. Nearly all of my best friends are in relationships, and I'm just over here as single as I've ever been. Sometimes I can't stand it. Sometimes I'd sooner ask Too, the man who sells me fruit everyday, to be my husband than go it one more minute alone, but those are only the days when I see that somebody has posted engagement pictures (coughCainycough) or become "facebook official"(coughTaylorcough). But when I get out of those few minutes of funk, I realize that my polygamous relationships with Travel, Adventure, Routine, and Teaching are far more rewarding. I am ultimately more happy living the lifestyle I do. Like my friends, my relationship status allows me to do the things that I love, live in the places that I can make a difference, and explore all the corners of this earth.


I'm thankful for the Pony Express (and I'm thankful those ponies swim).
I'm an Appreciater. I make it a point to appreciate everyone and everything that happens to me. So when someone takes the time and makes the effort to write some words on a page that will make it all the way to Thailand, I appreciate the heck out of it. Few things make me happier than a little hand-written love. It's as if Christmas comes every time we check the mail and have a package or letter waiting on us. I will never ever ever ever ever get tired of getting hand-written notes or boxes full of fun. My students also enjoy it because they think American candy is the coolest. 


I am thankful for roommates.
When it comes to terrible roommate stories, I can never partake in the tellings. This is because I have had the world's best luck when it comes to them. From my awesome college dorm-roommate to my first apartment with the sweetest girl in the world, I have had incredible experiences. But none would compare to my living situation here. I was prepared for changes in my living arrangements, but I didn't quite expect for us to be living in one little room. While this might have been disastrous for some friendships, it has only strengthened mine and Meredith's! It's a huge accomplishment for me to have lived in such close quarters with anyone for this long without having chased them away yet, but she's stuck by my side like a champ. I didn't just get a roommate; I got a counselor, a spiritual guide, a motivator, a morning oatmeal chef, a nurse, a comedian, a sister, a teacher, and a friend. She is officially the most patient and loving person I know. She tolerates my mood swings, anxiety, sarcasm, dancing, singing, complaining, and crazy with grace, calmness, and understanding. Once again, I've hit the roommate jackpot.


I'm thankful for hard decisions.
Some people leave home to escape life, or to make a new one. Some people never look back, and might not even have had anything on which to look back. My case couldn't be any more extremely opposite. I had EVERYTHING (I had to bolden, italicize, and underline this word to even vaguely get my emotions to you through this word) to leave. The most caring, selfless, wild, loving, and hilarious friends I could have ever hoped to gather up in 24 years. The most supportive family in existence (all my adopted parents included, and especially my lovely friend and role model who afforded me the opportunity to not only get to Thailand, but to return to the states as well with her generous buddy passes!). My dream job as an English teacher to over 100 7th graders who just plain stole my heart. I was able to have trial runs with certain best-friendships before I left that were indicators that everything would remain as it always had been. My childhood friends and I haven't skipped a beat--we've stood the test of high school, college, and now beyond without hesitation. The same goes for my college sweethearts. Steven happens to be one of the most attentive and present people in my life, and I've seen him maybe 4 times since 2010. I've just excitedly (understatement) accepted Cain Anne's proposal to be a bridesmaid in her wedding (and not because she's desperate for friends--I made her promise!), and we've only been in each other's (physical) presence a handful of times in the past couple of years. My very best friend Ashley has lived in Germany for the majority of our bestie-relationship. Like we'd ever let a little water separate us. As emotional as it was to even think of being away from these people (ones I have seen lately and ones I haven't), it is because of them that I am able to be over here doing what I love. I didn't have to think for a second about what would happen if I left. I didn't have to fear that friendships would fizzle or that my parents would choose a new favorite child (kidding...maybe). I don't have to worry about returning to awkwardness, seeing that places I may have held in people's lives may have been filled. Nothing would change. And since I've been gone, aside from the physical difference, nothing has changed. Turns out my parents haven't forgotten about me, my friends still make me laugh (every day), and my students are still learning. If it weren't for hard decisions, I wouldn't have nearly as much to be thankful for.

I'm thankful that my students had never heard of Thanksgiving.
I am such a holiday person. I'm a complete sucker for pumpkins, fall leaves, cornucopias, pecan pies, and all the other symbols that kick off the start of the holiday season. I'm ending the examples there because Christmas talk will send me into a frenzy. So when I first mentioned Thanksgiving here to blank faces, I was thrilled. This meant that I could brag on America and its beautiful tradition, and my words would fall on fresh ears. I emphasized the thankfulness and downplayed the binge eating (while still explaining the importance of turkey), and the kids were hanging on my every word. They couldn't exclaim all of their reasons to be thankful fast enough. It was the greatest gift last week having the power to get children to stop and count their blessings, realizing how often we don't.

I'm thankful you're reading this. 
I love to write, but it's even more of a blessing knowing that my Faithful Five are out there taking the time to click on this link and read what's new in Thailand. I've got nothing but love for every single one of you. So, as I'm constantly saying here in Thailand, kap khun ka!

Sunday, October 28, 2012

Hold on to your Holidays!


It was a Sunday evening in the spring of 2007 when Shannon Bridges (my college sweetheart of a best friend, and the person I’m most proud of) busted in my room to catch up from the weekend we’d been apart. That’s how it worked in our dorm life; one big house with its tenants flitting from room to room. Privacy? Overrated. Everything was everyone’s business. On that particular evening, if my memory serves me correctly (which it should because this is such a special one) I was drying my hair as she was telling me the latest news. All the sudden, she’d made me erupt with laughter, as was the norm (she’s got a real talent for that). As we got lost in it, the eruption turned to tears. All the sudden I was sobbing uncontrollably. For some reason, just like the laughter, she had fallen suit. We were both sitting in the middle of my half of the terribly cluttered dorm room as Shannon managed to choke out, “Why are we crying?!” I somehow responded, though how she was able to interpret my words, I’ll have no idea but to assume she already knew the answer: “Because it’ll all be over soon.” The best time of our lives, as every adult I’d encountered had told me college would be. The first year of it was coming to a close, and I was searching for the invisible breaks to stop it as ferociously as a mother in the passenger’s seat while teaching her teenager to drive. Sure, we were only freshman. We had all the time in the world. But it hit us both simultaneously. If the first year had gone this fast, the rest would only follow while picking up even more speed. In the words of Mr. Mayer, stop this train!

I’m reminded of this memory only because I find myself with the same feelings lately. We’ve been on our much-needed mid-year break this month, and it’s been the adventure of a lifetime. It hit me while a 4-month-old, 200 kilo elephant stepped on my foot, and again when I was surrounded by 4 full grown tigers (with the trainers telling me they were hungry, but not to worry): this isn’t going to last forever. In the middle of those deep rooted belly laughs when you find yourself at your happiest, reality sneaks in to remind you that sometime soon, maybe not at the exact moment but still inevitable, times will change. The happiness will not elude you if you make the effort to ensure its place in your life, but the settings, from a college dorm to the Jungle Book, will always be different. 



I’ve waited for this holiday from school pretty much since I arrived here. Routine and I have been very happy together. However, to keep a relationship exciting and new, you must not stifle each other. Space is key. Adventure came to sweep me off my feet, ya know, before Routine and I got tired of each other. After spending nearly a month with Adventure, I’m sure Routine will be waiting for me at the bus station with open arms to finish what we started. I’ll be happy to see my sweet kiddos again. I’ll be ready to wrap my hands for boxing again. I’ll be excited to get my daily helpings of fruit from my sweet Joy and Too again. But I’ll also have mixed emotions because going back to Uttaradit means that October is over. And if we’ve made it to and through October this fast, here to the end of my contract is going to fly. 

I have a nasty personality trait that I’ve long since accepted isn’t going to change. I always will days in my life to go faster. I want to know what’s next. Who’s next. Where’s next. How amazing can I make it? It keeps getting better, but it doesn’t change the fact that I desperately long for the days of laughter turned to tears with Shannon in my dorm room. I know I will never get those days back, but I am at least comforted by the fact that we were aware how wonderful they were when we were living them. We didn’t take them for granted as they passed, at least most of the time. I’m trying to live in the same way here. I can’t help wanting to know what’s coming next for me because I’ve chosen to live in such a way that it’s always uncertain, but I know whatever is in store will not keep me from looking back and missing the time I’ve spent with Adventure this month. 

I’ll no doubt long for spending a whole day among God’s most touching and personal creatures-the most surreal adventure of my life to date: being with the elephants. Meeting them, trusting them, feeding them, riding them bareback, swimming with them, bathing them, being picked up by their trunks, jumping into the water from their head, getting kisses from them. The day will be engrained in my memory forever!



My day spent with the tigers will no doubt have the same effect on me. I can tell you all day long how majestic and beautiful they are, but the only thing I could think of while being in their such near presence was how scared I was of my face being mauled off. 


Zip-lining, repelling, and hiking through the trees of Thailand’s jungles with Thailand’s gibbons will take your breath away. The guides were almost as great as the action itself because they gifted us with their senses of humor, throwing me to and from the trees while somehow making me feel safe. 


After our time in Chiang Mai that includes all these events (and several trips to Subway, I might add because yes, they had one, and yes, I spent enough money there to pay their bills for the month), we headed south to a quite rough part of the country. The surroundings of prostitution, slums, and threats of the mafia were all eye opening, but didn’t cloud the reason for which we came--the kiddos. I was fortunate enough to become the tiniest part of lives that are so hugely a part of my now greatest thoughts and memories. We worked with the babies of the local orphanage which Meredith sought out as a gift to me because she knows how to reach to my heart. We got to play, feed, wipe snotty noses, laugh, tickle, and lay with these babies until they fell asleep. Leaving....was rough. If I’d had a bag big enough, I’d have snuck each one out to take home with me. But maybe this will be a place I’ll be able to visit later on in life to do much more. 


Lastly, we parked it on Koh Samet, a beautiful tiny island situated in the gulf, for the rest of the break. Well, not so much “parked it” as “dropped off directly in the water by our boat taxi and walked to shore with our suitcase over our heads,” but I suppose that’s island life. It’s a nice quaint little place, ya know, if you’re into the whole white sand, blue water, quiet paradise with night time fire shows or beach side dancing type thing. We planned on the week being full of absolutely nothing but reading, writing, eating, and relaxing. Besides kayaking around the island during the day and spending hours on end dancing with who I’m convinced are the world’s most fun and brilliant travelers at night (I’ve learned it’s the quickest way to make friends with people who don’t speak the same language), we stuck fairly close to our plans. It was the perfect close to the break, and I feel like I’ve had enough time to charge up and get back to work. 



As this break has come full circle, I can’t help but be reminded of another circle that began in the summer of 2011 when the parting words of a person I love were spoken to me as I left for Europe: “Don’t rush.” I pass them on to you in hopes that they strike you as simply, yet remarkably, as they did me. Remember-these elusive, fleeting moments will slip through your fingers if you’re not careful. Grab ahold! 

Sunday, September 9, 2012

Routine is the New Adventure


Wellwhaddayaknow? It’s been over three months since I hopped on that first class flight to the land of no poptarts, a few English speakers, several feet of rain, hundreds of spiders, a thousand smiles, millions of hugs, and a billion mosquitoes. It marks the longest I’ve ever been away from home, but also the most content I’ve ever felt (although the two marks have nothing to do with each other). 

I certainly do not live a life of glamour. Every second is not full of adventure and romance or dramatic instances. In fact, most days are even quite Routine. In the past, Routine made me want to avert eye contact with him, catch the next plane to Anywhere, or plan for a new adventure. I was convinced that Routine would make my life boring, a grind of some sort, or that as soon as I acknowledged him, a chair would be pushed behind me, knock me off my feet (not in the way I desire), and ropes would come from that chair to tie me down to that particular place in time. And there, I’d be stuck forever

I stood there one day, holding my hands behind my back, staring down at the ground as I idly traced an invisible line back and forth with the tip of my toes. And then I lifted my head, stopped avoiding the gaze I knew was pointed in my direction, and looked Routine straight in the eye. The eye contact equivalent to waving my white flag. It was there I decided that maybe he wouldn’t be so bad. Since then, I’ve let Routine sidle up next to me on the bench where I’m reading, catch a ride with me to Muay Thai sessions, or walk (hand-in-hand even!) to our fruit stand to see Joy and Too (the owners).

Why is it here that I allow Routine to sneak his way into my daily life? And even more, why is it that I allow him to stay? Maybe because part of Routine is being bombarded with hugs, hundreds of them, as soon as I step foot on campus, by the cutest little babies in the whole world. Or hearing, “Teacha Kelsey, I luhs yous!” (love you) as many times as my ears could possibly handle throughout the day. Or getting extra fruit stuffed in my bag free of charge from Joy and Too every day just because they care. Or visiting Klaus, our amazingly kind and charming new German friend who not only owns one of the tastiest restaurants in town, but also walks us to and from our motorbike when we arrive and leave. Or it could be the five dollar one hour Thai massages we get every Saturday. Or maybe teaching English to the sweet gentleman at the college each weekend. Or getting together with the other few “farang” each week--you wouldn’t believe how wonderful it is to hear and speak English beyond a kindergarden level and be fully understood--something I’ll never take for granted again. Or the stops on the side of the road to get some coconut ice cream with sticky rice for 10 baht (next to nothing in USD). Or taking a long ride on the motorbike past the rice fields through the winding mountain roads deeper into the lush, green jungle to go play with the locals at the beautiful many-tiered Mae Phun waterfall. Or being greeted with enthusiasm by everyone in town, everywhere we go. Or...Or...Or...

I often get asked if I’m homesick. The answer is no. I don’t believe I get homesick. I don’t know if I’ve ever been homesick. Now before you go judging and thinking me to be cold-hearted, hear (read) me out. I love where I grew up, I love where I lived before this, I love where I am now, and I already love wherever I’ll explore next. Of course I miss home, but I’ve never pined after it, wishing and hoping I could be there. I miss my people more than I could ever miss any place because that’s undoubtedly what home has always been to me. There are times, especially when I was packing up to leave, that I felt so incredibly selfish to even be doing this. To leave the people for whom I live. Instead of wanting to be at home with them though, what I’ve wanted more is for them to be here, experiencing this with me. I feel like any pictures or blog posts could never do justice to what I see and live every day. I talk about my people like they are here with me. As if I’m just running errands and I’ll be back as soon as I’ve picked up my weekly jar of Nutella from the store-ha! as if a jar could ever last me as long as a week. When we’re running our laps around the track watching the soccer game on the field in the middle of it, I’ll ask Meredith to remind me to tell my brother (the soccer star) something. When my students and I got to open my first care package together from my sweet and thoughtful Crow mother, and I explained why she sent the things she did because I know the way she thinks (plus she sent a detailed letter describing each thing and why, so that helped;)When I see a new outfit in the windows of our favorite stores, I think “Kayla and Stephanie would die if they saw this.” When I hear a funny joke, I make a mental note to tell Big Lynn (my mom’s nickname--another story for another time). I probably think of Big Lynn the most-I know that there is so much about being here that she would love, and it makes me miss her constantly. 

There have been instances that have been harder than others, of course. When Cain Anne emailed me to tell me she was engaged, I cried. Out of happiness, of course, but also from the twinge of regret that I wasn’t there to receive the news on the phone and then join her in the celebrations in person. When my cousin/best friend Taylor started her second year in college, but moved into her first apartment, I had to see it for the first time via Skype instead of being there to hang her picture frames or decide in which cabinet her coffee cups should go. And speaking of coffee, I’m pretty sure the place I long for the most, you know, when you just have those longing moods, is Java Jolt, the place I called home probably more than any other location in the states. I truly miss stopping by morning, noon, and night for my 8th cup of coffee of the day. Sticking my head back in the kitchen to say hello to whoever of my best friends were working. Tying on an apron myself if it was my turn to work. Turning on the oven and the coffee maker on every Saturday morning at the start of my shift. Being tempted every time by each of the smells wafting their way around the shop. All the while, witty banter being exchanged among my Jolt family. My caring boss and Jolt owner, making it a place that none of us consider “work,” but instead “home.” Ok, I need to stop. It’s happening again. The longing. 

So I’ll have those little stolen moments for one thing or another, but then I’ll see an elephant walking down the street. Yes, simply and literally just walking down the street. And it’s not that it makes being without the people I love most in this world okay; it’s not that it makes me not miss them or think about them. But it sure does make it easier. It pulls me back to reality-the reality full of elephants--makes me thankful to be where I am, and reminds me to live in the moment. There’s never been a single moment where I’ve questioned if this is the place I’m supposed to be. 

As far as teaching experiences go, I can’t begin to compare. They are two different adventures entirely. Both have taken their toll on me, but have in turn doled out more than my fair share of rewards. I have poured my heart completely out to both jobs, so much so that I feel as if I must hang it up to recharge every night to have more to give the next day. In the states, I loved my job because I felt there might be some way that I could get through to the kids. Not just a love of proper grammar or literature, but of building good character or teaching them to love others. I could speak my first language of sarcasm with them, and they could (most of the time) understand and appreciate it. They could tell me about their drama, and I could play counselor. I developed such a connection with my OMS kiddos that when it came time to leave them, I cried so hard that I made myself sick. And while I could never classify the decision to leave them as the right one, I feel like ultimately, in the long run, it was the one that had to be made. And thankfully I did because it led me here to be in the lives of these kiddos, who couldn’t be more different. 

The schools, for one thing, are total opposites. I was being handed technology left and right in my classroom at OMS, and here I am cutting out pictures on cardboard to hold up and show the kids. While technology is a beautiful thing and can be such an excellent resource in the classroom, I sit in the office racking my brain for games to play and projects to assign that don’t require powerpoint presentations or things of the like. It’s undoubtedly broadened my teaching horizons and creative abilities to say the least. 

But in addition to broadening those aspects, this experience has also uncovered my true love for children. Thai children. I can’t get enough of them. Anyone who knows me pretty well could easily tell you that kids have never been on my “Things I’d Like to Have One Day” list. I’ve never cared for them, and the job of babysitting since I was 10 ultimately ended up being birth control for life. Don’t even get me started about screaming children in stores or restaurants. Or, heaven forbid, planes. I just can’t handle it. My degree is in Secondary Education for a reason. And while I still can’t stand those particular characteristics that come with kids, I have turned into someone I wouldn’t even recognize in my past life. If I see a small child here, I drop everything I’m doing and dote over it. And we see small children all the time. So naturally I’m constantly dropping things. For some reason, in fact, I specifically requested to teach the younger ages when I had my Skype interview with Dr. Nirund back in the Spring. I don’t know if it was an out of body moment or what, but my request has done me good because the moments I look forward to most during the school day are getting to work with the youngins. They run up to me countless times during the day, telling me God (or actually everyone but me) only knows what, and I smile and nod so much that I’m sure my face will slide right off. I’ve given up worrying about wrinkles--in fact, I’ll be proud to have the ones that have resulted from smiling and laughter. It’s one of the things I love most about my dad’s features--his laugh lines show that he’s found the humor and good in everything in life, and I strive to take after him in those (among so many other) aspects. I’ve never been a generally touchy-feely person either, but here I scoop up these babies left and right, hold hundreds of hands a day, and my lap is the place to be on the playground-and I wouldn’t have it any other way. This doesn’t change my mind about ever wanting to reproduce. I cherish my private, traveling, somewhat (ok, mostly) selfish life too much to make room for a child of my own. But the way I’ve grown attached to kids while teaching has taught me that it’s the only role I want to play, and I’ll set my mind to playing it to the best of my ability in whichever classroom I find myself in the world. 



One more thing that’s made it easier is looking at the scrapbook that my love Jessica (friends since we were, what, 6?) made me before I left. It’s full of pictures of us and a few of my other favorite people in the entire world. She made it travel sized so it fit perfectly in my carry-on, and it’s easily the most valuable thing I’ve got here with me. She knows I’m a lover of quotes, so she filled it with those too. The one that touched me the most was, no surprise to you all, from Harry Potter, added by request of the fabulous Lauren Riner, and proof that I have friends who truly understand me. The quote, even out of context, is the perfect explanation: 
“He must have known I'd want to leave you."
"No, he must have known you would always want to come back.” 

And come back, I will. Always. 

So that Routine guy? He ain’t so bad. And while every minute of every day of every month I spend here isn’t a complete walk in the park, I’ve managed to discover that Routine of this sort might be exactly for what I've been looking. 

Sunday, August 12, 2012

people helping people

Disclaimer (yes, another): this is a long post, my 5 readers. I hope you stick with me 'til the end!

I love traveling. Packing. Waking up in a totally new city just waiting to be explored. Being completely immersed in a foreign culture. Tasting new delicacies. Observing religious ceremonies and beliefs. Comparing and contrasting them from my own. Breathing air that doesn’t smell like home. Walking everywhere. People-watching. Speaking new languages. Hearing them spoken fluently. It’s all absolutely thrilling to me. 

What’s most amazing about traveling, however, is the fact that it all comes down to people helping people. Ty and I found this to be true in our European backpacking excursions, and the same continues during my adventures here in Thailand. The people make the place! I’m reminded every time I step on a surface I never have before. 

-The very first stop in our European escapades was visiting Galway and being hosted by Becca, my high school friend/sister who was studying there for a semester. She gave up her beds for us, arranged tours for us to take, and cooked us baked potatoes at 3am (just to name a few). 
-Then there were Robert and Karen Litton, the newlyweds then living in Karen’s native country, England, who took us in, fed us, drove us all around, showed us the hot spots, allowed us our very own bedrooms (a big deal when you’re used to hostel living), and made us feel at home. 
-After Robert and a few other stops, there was Toni and her wonderful Austrian family. We stayed in 3 different members’ houses in Vienna and Gratz, all the while being spoiled and stuffed with homemade cakes (filled with cherries from their backyard tree), apple strudel (again, homemade), and downright love that you can only get from a big special family. I was in heaven.
-Thanks to Ty’s dad, we slept in a five star hotel in none other than Rome, Italy. We’d never known such luxuries as we were allowed during that stay. I wouldn’t have done it any differently, either, because traveling frugally as we did allowed us to completely appreciate those luxuries we were awarded in Rome. 
-After a while of being on our own (and a miserable overnight train ride from Paris), I couldn’t have been more excited to meet my foreign exchange sister and her family who were hosting us in Berlin for the next week. I was so lucky to have been the one to meet her first, and also so lucky to have been spoiled for the duration of our stay. We woke up to a spread of different breakfast foods each morning, which was only outdone by each lunch and dinner. We were taken to museums, markets, the Wall, and all the other amazing sights of Germany’s capital. When I boarded the train to finally leave, I was in tears. 
-I saved the best hostess for last. Seeing my best friend’s face as I stepped off the train in her new home of Amberg, Germany was greater than all the sights of Europe. Ashley showed me such a memorable time, but being reunited with my best friend and able to just be us was the biggest treat of all. 
-Even upon my return stateside, I was shown generosity American style from one of the loveliest couples I know, Curt and Mary Zacharias. They gave up their guest bedroom and bathroom for months, allowing me to live and work there in Chattanooga, Tennessee while I began the search for my place in this world. Not once did they complain, and told me I could stay as long as I needed. They also have me convinced that they're incapable of bad moods because I was never greeted with anything less than love, kindness, and graciousness. 

So....all that to say, the life I’ve made here in Thailand has been no exception. From the moment we retrieved our suitcases from baggage claim, we have been “handled with care.” The love, compassion, and interest which has been shown to us cannot be topped. The best example of these characteristics has been illustrated by Alleeya and her family this past week. 

I’ll draw you a quick family tree to show you how Alleeya and I are connected. This could get confusing. My mom has an uncle named Mickey. Mickey has a wife (our aunt) named Mary Ann. Mary Ann has a brother named Dan. Dan has a girlfriend, and his girlfriend happens to be Alleeya. They live in Florida, but Alleeya is in Bangkok (her home town) for a few months visiting her family. Clear as mud, right? My Aunt Mary Ann put me in touch with Alleeya-and thank God for it! Keep in mind that I’d never met her before she requested my friendship on Facebook and invited Meredith and I to come vacation in Bangkok over our long holiday weekend. We immediately accepted the invitation without question, unsure of what we were getting ourselves into. Little did we know...

We took a 7 hour bus ride to the big city, and were greeted by a smiling Alleeya as we stepped off the bus on Wednesday night. She and her nephew, Peel, whisked us away for dinner in the heart of the city. She promised us we’d never be hungry during the duration of our trip. After we’d spooned all the rice, chicken, vegetables, fruit, and dessert (all heavily coated with Thai spices and doused in the special coconut curry mix I love so much), we took a ride around the Grand Palace which was completely adorned with lights for the religious holidays. We took strolls down the most popular streets in the city that were totally alive with an energy I can’t even describe. I found myself oggling at all the “farang” (foreigners) because it’s been so long since I’ve seen people who aren’t, well, Asian. As odd as it sounds, it was so strange not being stared at all the time like I am constantly here at home in Uttaradit. That’ll be a rough transition to make when I get back to the states. But I digress...



Fresh off the bus our first night in the big city with Alleeya

Later on that night, we made it to where we’d be residing for the next 4 days: Alleeya’s aunt and uncle’s house. However, it is not just a house. It is a huge home that is bursting at the seams with love, generosity, kindness, and welcome. Also, you have to cross a bridge going over a pond with giant coy fish in it to get to the front door. This is a big deal for me. Do you know anybody who has a moat-like coy pond entrance to their house? I didn’t think so. We were greeted by the ferocious cocker spaniel guard dog, Dee-Dee, who learned to love us when we bribed her with tummy rubs. P’Boy, husband of Alleeya’s cousin, led us to our sleeping quarters (complete with our own bathroom with a rain shower head-another big deal for me), which ended up being our very own wing of the house. When you can use the term “wing,” you know the house means business. They bolted the deal that had long been sealed when we woke up, went downstairs, and were greeted by a feast of a breakfast. Alleeya’s sweet aunt sat with us to make sure we were completely and utterly content with everything we piled on our spoons and into our mouths. If there was free space on our plate, she could be found filling it. If we so much as leaned or, heaven forbid, pointed, in the direction of something we wanted, the angel had it out and ready for us.  These people are kind. These people are generous. These people are love. I could’ve cried all day, every day, from sheer happiness.

After eating as if afraid we never would again, we left the house to spend the day in the city. We shopped. We ate. We saw the Grand Palace (ya know, where Alleeya used to work-no big deal, right?). We got Thai oil massages. All of these were compliments of Alleeyah, who claimed, after our many failed attempts to pay or give her money-and believe me, we were trying- “it’s just Thai style.” The next day was the same, continuing in the fun and relaxation, but filled with just as much excitement and this time, we were joined by Aui, one of Alleya’s cousins. And truth be told, I’m not sure I’ve ever met a more beautiful person, inside and out! This angelic woman gives and gives and gives. Every time we passed a person in need, she gave. And never attracting attention, but silently, discreetly, and tenderly. For the rest of my life, I will strive to treat people the way she did. I could have cried from her compassion. 




Sweet Peel and me at the Grand Palace



On Saturday, the ladies took us to the floating markets of Ampawa, which is a city a few hours outside Bangkok that’s comparable to Italy’s Venice. It’s a little city on the water, and you can shop at the water’s edge, or have your pick from merchandise being sold on longboats. They booked us a Thai style hotel right on the canal, and we were just a short boat ride way from the main attraction. On Sunday, we took our own private boat ride through the canal and shopped at our leisure, exploring what the vendors had to offer. My favorites were, you guessed it, the ones with food. You can’t imagine a better scenario of eating while you shop, so stop trying right now. I munched on my longon (my new favorite fruit that Alleeyah introduced to me) while haggling with vendors. I could have cried from contentment. 



Floating Markets of Ampawa at sunset. If only the picture could do it justice. 



Aui, Alleeya, Peel, and me about to board the boat to the markets.

We were only in Bangkok with this family for 5 days, but that was all the time it took to make them ours. A Thai family all our own. They not only insisted we call them if we needed anything, but also made us promise to come back in October on our long mid-year break. I am only too anxious to take them up on it, and have already made a calendar to count down the days until I get to see the people most precious to me in this country again. Alleeya kept her promise to me (ya know, the one where she said we’d never feel hungry), so I feel it’s only right to keep my promise to her family about returning quickly. I could cry from the love of my new family. 



Alleeya's precious niece-love at first sight (on my end at least)


one big happy family!


Alleeya's aunt-she has my heart!

The challenge is this: how could I ever attempt to repay all these people around the world for the care and kindness and love and compassion and generosity they showed me, some of them never having met me before taking me in? But that’s just it! They don’t want to be repaid. They do it because that’s what good people do. I have concluded that the only way I could do them justice is to pay it forward. Who knows where in the world I'll end up settling down (if anyone could ever convince me to), but when/if I do, I'm making another promise to you, my Fabulous Five, I will find some way to change lives the way each and every single one of these special people I've encountered have changed mine. I will continue on and strive to be one of the people to help people. I am longing to be someone's person to have made the place for them, and I can't wait until I achieve it. When that's done, I'll pack it all up and start over. Luckily, this kind of gift giving is the best kind: recyclable. 

Friday, July 27, 2012

elephants: everywhere but in the room


*Disclaimer: this post was not written as a cry for help or need for compliments, so please don’t take me for an insecure little child!
Oh Thailand. These past two months have treated me so well. The atmosphere? Thrilling. The food? Mouth-watering. The people? Kind, generous, caring, loving, and...what was that last characteristic that named them so well? Oh yes...HONEST. 
If there’s one thing I’ve learned living in Thailand which trumps all the others, it’s the fact that Thais will sugar coat everything except the truth. I’ve seen elephants at the conservatory, at zoos, and even a few times a week on the street here. But as far as elephants in the room go? Not a one. 
What I mean is this: Thais will call you out. If there’s something wrong, they’ll tell you. If there’s an inappropriate question, they’ll ask it. If they have an opinion, they’ll make it known. It’s these qualities that make me love the people so much. However, one opinion that everyone I’ve come across here seems to share is that I. Am. Fat. 
No one would ever say this to my face in America. Maybe a small child. Or a grumpy old man. Or a close friend who knows how to push my buttons, but only in jest. I’m sure it’s been said behind my back, but to my face? It just wouldn’t happen. Not because I’m not overweight, but because as Americans, it sometimes seems as though it’s a wild competition to see just exactly how many pink elephants we can stuff in a room. So many of us judge each other, but if asked our honest opinion, we’d smile and tell the person they’ve never looked better. Maybe this is only a Southern thing. And it’s not to say that I don’t have honest friends who’d be the first to tell me that yes, Kels, your butt does look big in those pants. But most of the people I know in America wouldn’t in a million years so much as hint I’m fat (again, to my face). 
What’s my motivation for this post? I’ll admit that my weight has been an issue to me for a while. When backpacking through Europe, I chose to do away with being health conscious, and instead made it my job, my very purpose in life, to taste every delicacy known to man in each and every country. Multiple times. My metabolism has never earned bragging rights, so naturally all those delicacies caught up with me. Somewhere between coming back to the states, moving around, and settling into a few jobs, I never could seem to shake the weight back off. So now at the heaviest I’ve ever been, I’ve inadvertently become Sensitive Sally. It’s not because that one little girl I told you about a couple of posts ago called me fat. It’s not because I feel big compared to the small stature of the Thais by whom I’m surrounded. It’s because every day, by multiple people and several times (ya know, in case I forget), I am told I am fat. It’s never in a mean insulting way, but rather just like telling me that I have blonde hair or blue eyes--”Oh, and teacha: you fat.” 
Now, before all (five) of my readers take a collective gasp and think I can’t believe those people would speak to her like that! She shouldn’t think that! How rude of them!, please know that I’m not taking it to heart...totally. At first, I laughed it off. I was mainly getting it from the kids, and I was just happy to hear them speak English so well. I jokingly mentioned it to one of the kindest teachers in the university here, and she replied, “Yes, the children will always tell the truth. But at least you have a pretty face!” In a way, it felt like she was saying Hey, at least you’ve got that going for ya! Maybe there’s some hope! In America, a mention like that would’ve gotten me a “Honey, don’t you dare listen to what those little babies are saying; they don’t know what they’re talking about!” In America, in America, in America...Dorothy, honey, we’re not in Kansas anymore. 
I hadn’t given too much thought to the situation (although I’m sure Meredith would disagree, as I’ve come home venting about the number of times on which it was commented each day--if only I had a baht for every time!) until a little girl asked me, as I so often get asked here (much like by my students in America), if I have a boyfriend. When I gave her “no” as my answer, she looked at me simply, as if it was the most obvious thing in the world, and replied “You fat, that’s why you no have boyfraaann.” That’s that, everybody. Alert the presses! Mystery solved! If only I knew enough Thai to put that little rugrat in her place...
I’ll admit: this one cut me deep. And then, to make matters worse, the same week a couple of the guys at the boxing ring (including my trainer) motioned to me that I needed to stop eating so much because I am fat. I’m always described as “the big one” when people are distinguishing between Meredith and me. The one that took the cake, though, was at the English camp I worked this weekend. They students were on a scavenger hunt, and one of their tasks was to find something fat. Oh yes, you guessed it. Passing up the 350 pound Buddha look-alike to my right, they came and took a picture of me to exemplify the characteristic. Excuse me?! If only they could grasp what a healthy eater I actually am! At each of these instances, I was distraught that people saw me this way. They don’t know me! They aren’t with me at mealtimes! I’m here working hard, aren’t I? Rude! 
All of these instances combined triggered my email writing. I typed away to my nearest and dearest, whining about being fat. Their responses were immediate, being the greatest friends that they are. My best friend, Ashley Bass, reassured me and suggested I think logically. Of course these people would call me fat because of what they had to compare against. They’re all of a tiny stature and are naturally skinny people. She padded my ego and made me smile again as only she knows how. Cain Anne, my other half, used a little less sugar when coating her words, which ended up being exactly the dosage I needed. Her reply was filled with the utmost reassurance as well, but also that extra kick in the pants telling me to suck it up. No, but really. Those were her exact words. “Suck it up, Crow. You are going to have to deal with people constantly pointing out your biggest insecurity because you live in a place where the citizens are genetically and economically thin.  Of course they think you are fat; look what they have to compare: other skinny Asians. You are strong, and you can do it.  Beg for it.  Embrace it.  You traveled all this way, and for what?  To be called fat?  No; you went there to make a difference.  You are there to change the lives of the most amazing children you will ever meet of course, but to also make a difference in your life.” The gal put it to me plain and simple. How am I supposed to argue with that?
Sometimes it takes people who know you better than you know yourself to remind you of what you already know to help you regain the strength to get your crap together, collect that negative energy, and convert it to positive. Did I make that as clear as mud? Thankfully (and unsurprisingly), they did just that. And between their immediate (and obviously effective) responses, Zach’s daily encouragement to keep kicking butt and taking names during boxing sessions, Meredith’s (daily, hourly, by the minute) patience, understanding, and guidance, and remembering Steven’s (who has earned the title of my most interesting closest friend) reminder that I am single right now because I choose to be, I am back on top and working harder than ever. 
That being said, I have continued to be diligent in my Muy Thai training, motorbiking it across town to be beaten to a pulp for nearly two hours every single day. I’m working the hardest I ever have. These sessions make everything else I’ve ever done before feel like child’s play. The physical change may be a slow and (I’m hoping) steady one, but the mental and emotional one has already far exceeded my expectations. This week, the guys gathered around the ring, clapping and cheering as I jabbed, kicked, blocked, and sparred against trainer, telling me how beautiful my forms were, clearly proud and telling the trainer he’s done well with me, and asking me when my first fight would be (I’m telling myself that their questioning was in support instead of being anxious to see me get my rear end handed to me in the ring). I’m finally at the level where trainer is wrapping my hands and hitting me back; I’ve reached the mark that made me want to begin training in the first place!



So I’m not in the figurative Kansas anymore. Thank God for it! Maybe their truth telling and ignoring of elephants is exactly the motivation I need to get my head in the game and become the very best person I can during my time in this country. With any luck (and by luck, I mean I will keep my determination, hard work, and perseverance at a maximum--it’s my promise to you, my five dedicated readers;), I’ll extend it to my next stop after Thailand, wherever in the world that may end up being.   
If anyone needs to borrow a soapbox, I’m done using mine. 

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

the old "neung-sawng"

Let me attempt to paint a picture for you. Hop on the motorbike with me (a little Vespa type, if you will---and yes, we finally got one and moved up on the road chain!). We'll weave in and out of traffic, forgetting all the rules you've ever learned and only looking out for yourself (because that's the Thai way). We'll jet across Uttaradit (way faster than we did on that stinkin' bicycle) with ease, passing tons of vendors selling Som Tam (my favorite Thai meal), durian (the most disgusting fruit on the planet), sticky rice, meat on a stick, iced coffee, sodas poured in bags instead of cups, among hundreds of other options. We'll pass the Tesco Lotus (which is the equivalent to Walmart) and head a little out of town. Just past a beautiful golden temple, we'll turn down a hidden dirt road, often muddy due to rainy season. We'll get a little deeper in the jungle before we finally make it to our destination, which is the real treat. Are you still with me?

Imagine turning into a little residence just off the dirt road, and parking the motorbike among the dogs and chickens that are wandering in the puddles or vegetation around the muddy "driveway." To the right, there's an open air house that's on stilts. Underneath the house, next to the kitchen area, there's an old TV set up with a few people around it watching boxing, which is what we're here to learn. To the left is where that will happen: a worn boxing ring with a roof over it, surrounded by 3 or 4 punching bags having the stuffing all but beaten out of them by the boxers in training. Welcome to my new gym!
I was excited about coming to Thailand for a thousand reasons, but training in Muy Thai was one of the highest on the list. As soon as we got settled here in our new town, I asked around about who could train me and was greeted with a lot of awkward looks that I didn't expect seeing as how this is the national sport of Thailand. Finally, I was introduced to my wonderful friend, Pond, who has a history with Muy Thai. Not only has she trained, but it's also how she met her fiance who just happens to be a professional Thai boxer in Bangkok. She took us to meet our trainer last week, and once I set eyes on the whole place, people, and all around experience, it was love at first sight.
I'm a lover of a challenge. To travel is challenging. To make things like this happen is a challenge. But also small personal challenges, like running which I started seriously in late 2009, get me excited. My last race was my ultra-marathon back in 2011, and having run it on injured knees, it was kind of a funeral for them. I've been avoiding racing and serious running since because I can physically feel the pain that it caused every time I think about that race. I know my running days aren't over because I'm not willing to let them go, but I want to push my body to the next limit with boxing. It's something in which I've always been interested and said I'd do, but I've never taken the time to get serious with it. I promised myself not to pass the opportunity up now that I'm in the prime country for it.
I've dabbled in boxing before. My mom did her share of boxing as I was growing up, and I even taught a cardio-kickboxing class in college, but I've never had formal training. One of my best friends, Zach,  has a few black belts (no big deal, right?), so for a couple of months before I left we had some training and sparring sessions to get me ready. And thank goodness for them! I'm not in any kind of shape to be good yet, but Zach was able put details about form into words, which is something I can't get from my new trainer because he doesn't speak English.
So more about my new trainer and gym...but you'll have to use your imagination for a bit longer.
The trainer is probably my dad's age (so 30, right Daddy?), and made of 100% muscle (just like my dad, too ;), but not the bulky body builder type. This guy is just plain brick wall material. And get this: he's kind of famous. He's a retired professional boxer who was (and still is) known around the country. Pretty awesome that he, a man who talks, sleeps, eats, and breathes Thai boxing, is taking the time to instruct two Americans who have no real prior knowledge of the sport. He knows 5 English words: kick, block (which he pronounces "bok"), one, two, and good. Between that and watching the few other guys that train with us at the "gym," it's really all we need. He's as sweet as he can be, but what's best is that he pushes me harder than I've ever experienced, and it's exactly what I was hoping for. I wanted someone who makes me keep going when I can't, and holy canoli, he does that. Once we're done with the hour and a half session in the ring full of my trainer giving commands and what seems like millions of repetitions of "the old one-two"(or "the old neung-sawng" as we now call it in Thai), he motions to the floor which means it's time for the required number of sit ups and push ups. After that, there's bag work that consists of hundreds of reps to attempt to perfect knees, kicks, and punches. I've run 26 miles at a time and not been as tired as I am after a 2 hour boxing session. It takes every muscle and ounce of concentration. Sweating is to be expected any time in Thailand, but add being outside and boxing, and I can literally ring sweat out of my t-shirt once I'm finished (and then wash it off on the ab racks of the guys that train with us)!


This is actually one of my driest nights!
The guys at the gym are so patient. Our trainer is hilarious, too. When we work on front kicks to the stomach, he always falls backwards to humor me even though I know if I kicked him with all the force I could muster up straight in the abs, he wouldn't budge an inch. And the guys who train with us (who fight competitively and are on their way to being professional status) are so much fun to watch and learn from. At first it was awkward because no one speaks English, and my Thai as of now is a joke unless we're in a restaurant (see what I mean about the eating!?), but now it's just a good time when they show us different moves or let us spar with them (which is my favorite part :). It also helps that they're wildly attractive. They guys share about 1% body fat among them. 
Boxing now consumes the majority of my thoughts. When I wake up in the morning, I'm excited because I get to spend all day with my kiddos, and then after that head straight to the ring. Plus the more I fight, the more I'm able to eat afterwards. How sweet of a deal is that? I got to see my first live Thai boxing matches this past weekend. It's like the whole town gets together for these things. They set up as if the fair is coming to town; there are vendors selling food, drinks, and toys. Everyone hangs out until the fights start. They let us sit in the V.I.P. section, and made us feel as if we were almost as important as the main event! The evening started with the smaller boys, probably around age 12. Later in the night, the fights made their way up to grown men. Each of the fights were equally entertaining, and we even saw a couple of guys get knocked out. Everything is so alive; the crowd goes crazy, the boxers are animated, and there are guys placing and running bets for each round. I can't get enough of the atmosphere, and I can't help but get invested in the fighters more and more each match. I don't know if I'd ever be able to have a real go at it; for now, training is exciting enough for me. We shall see...All I'm sure of is if there's one thing that feels better than being in the ring, it's hopping on the motorbike to ride home, feeling a sense of accomplishment the whole way. 


After my first night. Go big or go home!

Things I've learned in Thailand so far:
33. Ask for Som Tam "nid noi phet," which means to Thais "just a little bit spicy" which means to us "tolerable only if consumed with a gallon of water."
34. Speaking of Som Tam, pronunciation is key. If you say Som Tom, or Sam Tam, no one will have even the slightest clue what you're talking about. If your pronunciation is even the slightest bit off, you are out of luck.
35. Leave food out anywhere for longer than 5 minutes? Come back expecting a side of ants.
36. All fruits have their own season. This is not the issue. The issue is that when they're not in season, they pickle them. Don't ask for mango in the off season. You will get pickled mango. And you will not like it. 
37. In boxing, when kicking and/or punching, the boxers yell a word as they exert the most force. The reason for this is the release of bad spirits. I am still trying to come up with the perfect demon releasing word. 
38. I've found chocolate milk (in a little juice box looking container) to be one of the most refreshing treats. 
39. Our Thai friend No (yes, that's her name), the sweet lady we met who graduated from Mercer University with her undergrad and the University of Alabama with her Masters, made us an entire notebook full of helpful ways to learn Thai. The epitome of kindness!
40. Dessert most nights is a fresh fruit smoothie made from any fruit of my choice. All organic ingredients, and all naturally sweetened. Dragon fruit is my favorite so far. Tonight I'm trying carrot! Hey, when in Thailand...



Wednesday, June 27, 2012

it's the little things


The rainy season is upon us! It was never more apparent than the other day when I was leaving school. I could have waited until it passed, but I was anxious to get home because one of Meredith's students was coming to spend the afternoon with us. I figured the 30 baht umbrella I'd purchased from Big C in Lampang could finally have the chance to prove its worth on the trek home, but it didn't rise to the challenge. Very few motor-bikers passed me on my walk, but I know the ones that did were probably laughing to themselves about the silly "farang" (foreigner) who thought it better to face the storm than wait it out. Umbrella turned inside-out, I waded home, not caring about myself getting wet anymore, but only keeping the computer dry. What's that cliche quote about learning to dance in the rain? I didn't so much dance as I did swim, but either way, it was more fun than waiting it out. 
It was such a treat to have Nook (Meredith's student) with us for the afternoon. We went to our usual restaurant; it's the one we keep going back to because the man who runs it is so friendly, and the food he cooks can't be beat. Nook helped us with our Thai, and also with our order seeing as how most of the time we just take our chances when trying to tell the cook what we'd like to eat. Nook was able to describe what we'd be getting ahead of time. The man, seeing our trouble every night, grabbed the attention of a university student off the street and kindly had him translate his menu so that we'd know what we were ordering from now on. If that's not customer service, then I don't know what is. If he didn't have our business daily before, he assured it with that move from here on out. 
Speaking of food, I had my first encounter with some serious peppers last weekend. Our favorite little coffee shop is attached to a posh restaurant that hosts live music nightly. We decided to don our finest going out looks and give it a try. No sooner had we taken our seats than a cute little boy brought us a box of round little jelly type candy things. Great description, right? (We later came to the conclusion that the best way to describe them was by comparing them to the looks of bath beads) Anyway, the little boy went on to tell us, in Thai, that the candies were compliments of the table of gentlemen that was looking down on us from the upstairs seating. We looked up, and sure enough they were smiling and waving to us. We thanked them with a return wave, and tried one of the candies. The good news is that they weren't drugged or spiked, and delicious to boot! The men turned out to be really polite guys just doing something nice. The bath beads were the least of my worries that night, anyhow. We had the waiter order for us, asking her to pick out one of her favorites for us to try. They brought our food out, and being the genius I am, I took a huge bite of multiple red bell peppers (or at least what I thought to be so). I couldn't tell you what happened within the next few minutes, but Meredith tells me that I blacked out. I have never tasted something so spicy, and never experienced a taste that was so impossible to extinguish. Apparently I couldn't even respond to Meredith, and when she asked me if I remembered our conversation, I realized I had absolutely no recollection. So it just goes to show, kids: If you see some peppers on a plate in Thailand, go ahead and assume they aren't of the bell persuasion, but instead something more along the lines of the fiery depths of hell here to destroy you (should you absentmindedly have a mouthful). 
As you've seen from the pictures, it's no secret that I'm head over heels for the kids here at school. And they've been nothing but wonderful to me right back. However, there is a gap in our communication. A gorgeous little girl of about 8 or 9 stopped me before I left class last week and said "Teacha Cow-see, you ah so fat and beeee-you-tih-fooo (beautiful)!" Either I'm dropping the ball on teaching them what fat means, or I need to lay off the sticky rice and noodles. So to remedy this situation, I am assuming that these angels know exactly what fat means, and I'm going to take the latter option. However, without rice or noodles, I am not left with an abundance of meal choices. I am left with plenty of cardio choices, though, and with the help of the students and one of the faculty members here at the college, I am going to whip myself back into my marathon running shape. Aside from running at the track here on campus every night with Meredith, I will now be getting Muay Thai lessons from one of the boxers at the local gym. Also, since everyone has an hour break for lunch, I have decided to spend the 45 minutes that I am not eating playing badmitton (the second most popular sport I've seen) or soccer (the first) with the older kids, or chasing the younger ones around the playground and catching them when they come down the slide (which they have gotten quite a kick out of). By gosh, I am determined to teach that little girl the meaning of the word "skinny," and have her point to me when she says it. 
On our way to dinner the other night (yes, most everything we do is centered on food, and when we'll next eat it...hence the "fat" problem), we were mounting our bike, and low and behold, Meredith directs my attention to none other than a baby elephant walking down the street! We  blinked a few times just to make sure we weren't dreaming (since Mer had literally dreamt of just that only last night) before quickly chasing after him. The little (or giant) darling was being led by a man who was running quite a business for himself: 20 baht to pet and feed it. We jumped at the opportunity before it passed us by, and the baby elephant knew exactly what was going on. No sooner had we shelled out the money than was his trunk searching and sniffing for his treat. He wasted no time grabbing the food out of our hands, and was gone as quick as he came, on to the next customer. It was so surreal continuing our bike ride passing motorbikes, cars, dogs, and then being reminded that we're in Thailand by sharing the road with an elephant. 
Above all else, this country has taught me to enjoy the small pleasures in life, one of the most important being a standard mattress. It's not like I had the epitome of all mattresses before. It's that I have a slab of styrofoam now. We've come to the conclusion that what they've given us must've been display mattresses or something of the sort. Whatever the material, it has no give, no bounce, no nothing. We have 2 twin beds; besides the bad mattress, the other is a little more forgiving. Still not anything to write home about because of the springs poking you all over, and the fact that it sags toward the middle making you having to grab the sides for support; however, it is welcomed in comparison to the other nightmare. Meredith and I switch beds every other night, and on my nights with the “good” mattress, it feels like Christmas came early. I literally look forward to it throughout the day. Sleep is so important, and for the first time in years, I’m trying to get at least 7 hours (as opposed to my usual 4-5 I’ve been getting the past few years). Aaaaallllll that to say,   if I wasn’t before, I am now even more appreciative of the little things in life. Rides home on motorbikes, poking springy mattresses, internet connection, bath bead jello candies, elephant sightings, truth-telling kids, cardio activities, bell peppers in cognito--stop and smell the jasmine, people!
Things I’ve learned after a month in Thailand:
25. Fruits here are as aesthetically pleasing as they are tasty.
26. I’m rekindling my love for all things Harry Potter by rereading the series with first time (and still oblivious) reader, Meredith.
27. You can buy RayBan sunglasses here for less than 3 bucks a pop. I’ve splurged on 3 pairs so far. 
28. After cutting back on my coffee addiction (and only having iced mochas as a treat), I am no longer able to enjoy one in the evenings. I found this out the hard way (and the night I had to sleep on the nightmare bed), and after having one for dessert, I stayed up all. night. long. staring at the ceiling.
29. My favorite source of protein now comes from tiny baby eggs (they almost look like robin eggs) that have been fried sunny side up, and sprayed and sprinkled with some really great Thai spices.
30. I carried a basket of laundry, basically African woman style (on my head), for about a quarter of a mile to the nearest laundry mat (which is more like 3 washing machines in an outhouse). Very worth it not to have to handwash everything, though.
31. We escaped the lizards, but have new creatures haunting us. Swarms of bats live in the roof above us. We actually had to duck to avoid them riding to dinner tonight because of their flying so low. 
32. We’ve put our airplane neck pillow to good use, as it now serves as a seat pad for the passenger on the bike. Not the most ideal of situations (because it tends to slide, leaving the rider in awkward positions), but certainly better than the previous!